I was better with the sound of the seaEaster Break was magical. I saved the European galavanting for the summer and spent my three week break enjoying the raw beauty of Scotland. After a quiet weekend in Aberdeen my Connecticut comrade Corey and I jumped on a 6:30am bus ride to Glasgow, with the intention of conquering the most famous long distance hiking trail in Scotland: The West Highland Way.
      Than with the voices of men
And in desolate and desert places
      I found myself again.
For the whole of the world came from these
And he who returns to the source
May gauge the worth of the outcome
And approve and perhaps reinforce
Or disapprove and perhaps change its course.
Now I deal with the hills at their roots
      And the streams at their springs
And am to the land that I love
      As he who brings
His bride home, and they know each other
Not as erst, like their friends, they have done,
But carnally, casually, knowing that only
By life nigh undone can life be begun,
      And accept and are one.
- from The War with England, by Hugh
MacDiarmid
For those of you not in the know, the West Highland Way is a 95 mile long hiking trail running through some of Scotland's most beautiful and rugged landscapes. The trail begins in a tiny suburb of Glasgow and ends at Fort William, in the shadow of the UK's highest mountain. The trail is a combination of old cattle trails, railway lines, and roadways.
Corey and I hiked it together in 7 days. I could write thousands and thousands of words on everything we experienced, but I haven't the energy and I'm sure you haven't the patience. So I'll just give you a few glimpses into the best moments of the trip.
Day One: The first day was mostly long and uneventful. One memory worth noting: about 100 meters into the trail a small, white-haired old man smiled to us and said, "Only a bit further now, lads!" The trail took us through lots of farmers' fields and we had a few close encounters with the livestock. We made a tiny stopoff in Drymen and picked up some supplies from a lovely outdoors store with an incredibly friendly owner. At the very end of the day we climbed a massive hill and it completely wore us out, but it did give us our first sight of the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond. Lomond was captivating. We camped a little past the summit of the hill with our $30 tent. It was really cold, and we didn't get much sleep.
Day Two: Another long day, but much more eventful. It was foggy in the morning but cleared in the afternoon, just as we had lunch on a pier jutting out into the Loch. The sun smiled on us as we chose the more difficult, rambling path beside the Loch. It was well worth it. This was probably the most primitive part of the path, running along the thickly wooded banks. It was absolutely stunning. Deep in the woods we stumbled upon old ruins of homes and prisons and an old mountain bothy. Lomond continued to impress. We hoped to stay at a bunkhouse in a town but it was too expensive, so instead we pushed on to a free mountain bothy where we met a Canadian girl also hiking the way. We collapsed with exhaustion.
Day Three: We left the bothy early and said our goodbyes to Loch Lomond. It rained on us briefly in the morning, but very light and only for an hour or so. This was a short day and mostly uneventful, as we passed through some of the flatter parts of the way. For the evening we stayed in a wigwham just north of Crainlarich. It was warm and cozy, and Corey and I took advantage of the kitchen and made a huge meal to appease our appetites. The wigwham place was run by a friendly Aberdeen University grad. Probably my favorite accomadation on the WHW.
Day Four: By this time we were pretty sore and so we had another easy day, hiking along to Bridge of Orchy. It was very windy, but the scenery was improving and slowly turning more mountainous. We got to get up close and personal with some Highland Coos. We stayed in a bunkhouse at a hotel for the night and we both got to take much need showers.
Day Five: We left really early this day, sometime around 7 :00 before the sun had risen. We got some great views of the sunrise on the way. This was one of the more remote parts of the trail, where we felt the most isolated. Mountains peaked on each horizon and we saw a herd of deer grazing in the morning sun. We reached our day's end point before 1:00pm, but we couldn't stay there for the night, so instead we tried hitchhiking to the next town. We got a ride after thiry minutes from a friendly Scot named Jillian. We made fast friends and she invited us to a shinty match her boyfriend was playing in. We had time to kill so we went and thoroughly enjoyed it. Afterwards Corey and I walked on through another beautiful small town before hoping on a bus to the nearest accomodation in Kinlochleven. We got a tiny cabin for a great price and stayed there for the night. One of my favorite days.
Day Six: We hitched with a wonderful Welsh couple from Kinlochleven back to where we had left the trail the previous day. Today was our shortest day but the terrain was suppose to be the most difficult. We climbed the ineptly named Devil's Staircase to an elevation of 700 meters and got a great view of the surrounding countryside. By this point we were surrounded by snowcapped mountains. It was unreal. We made a slight side trip up to a higher peak before rambling back down the trail to Kinlochleven, where we stayed again in our small cabin. Perhaps the most scenic day on the WHW.
Day Seven: We set off early from Kinlochleven for our final day of hiking. We immediately climbed high above the small town and made our way through a beautiful mountain pass littered with sheep and old ruins. The last bit of the trail wound through beautiful green hills and thick pine forests before we descended to our endpoint. We walked through Glen Nevis with the mountain towering over us, and soon we had arrived in Fort William. At the final signpost we took a break and shook hands at a long hike well done. We stayed in a youth hostel for the night and ate a massive spaghetti dinner to celebrate. For dessert we split a delicious carrot cake.
To see the best photos of the trip, check out my album by clicking here. Tune in next time when I summarize the rest of my Easter Holidays, including my hike of the Great Glen Way.
Cheers,
Jacob





















